Actually ITALIAN
 THURSDAY, MAY 28

It’s Not Spaghetti Bolognese. It Has Never Been Spaghetti Bolognese.

In Bologna, there is a document. An actual, official document, filed with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce in 1982, that defines exactly what ragù alla Bolognese is and how it is made. Spaghetti is not in the document. A mountain of tomatoes is not in the document. Garlic is not in the document. What is in the document is tagliatelle, time, and the understanding that some dishes are not suggestions — they are architecture.

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OVERHEARD · OSTERIA DA ENZO, ROMA
"Garlic bread? Madonna mia. We don't even have a word for that. Bread is bread."
— ENZO, 62, OWNER. SAID WHILE PEELING POTATOES.
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